Custom development

Develop a cloth that is yours, not a catalogue number

Composition, weight, width, weave, colour and finish are set together against the garment you are making. Minimums and cycles below are usual values, confirmed per order rather than promised in advance.

The flow

Five stages, and the sample decides each one

Nothing moves to bulk until you have approved the sample in writing. Each stage exists to remove a risk that would cost more later.

  1. Requirement

    You send the end garment, target market, composition, weight, width, colour direction, quantity per colour and any finish or certification the buyer requires. We come back with what the construction can and cannot do at your target quality and price, before anything is woven.

  2. Handloom and lab dip

    A handloom sample shows the weave and the yarn-dyed pattern; a lab dip shows the shade against your swatch or colour reference. This is the cheapest point to change direction, so it is worth doing properly.

  3. Development sample

    The fabric is woven and finished in the construction you approved, on the yarns and finishing route that bulk will use. You check handle, shade, weight, width and any functional finish against the garment.

  4. Approval

    Approval is your written confirmation by email or chat. The approved version and its revision are the bulk standard, so a later change of shade or finishing is treated as a new development, not a correction.

  5. Bulk

    Yarn is booked, the lot is woven, dyed and finished, then inspected roll by roll before packing. Findings are reported to you before shipment so you can decide, rather than discovering them when the goods arrive.

What can be changed

Six dimensions, and how far each one moves

A yarn-dyed construction is fixed at the loom, so the earlier a dimension is decided, the wider the range that stays open.

Composition

Cotton, cotton-rich, poly-viscose (TR), poly-wool blends and organic cotton where the product documents exist. Special yarns are quoted on request, subject to confirmation.

Weight

Light shirting weights through to mid-weight bottoms and outerwear, stated in g/m². The workable range narrows once composition, weave and finish are fixed.

Width

Shirting widths up to wider constructions for bottoms, depending on the loom and the finishing route. Width tolerance is agreed with the order, subject to confirmation.

Weave and construction

Plain, twill, dobby, oxford and satin grounds, with checks, stripes and jacquard effects created in the yarn-dyed pattern rather than printed on the surface.

Colour

Shades are matched to your swatch, Pantone reference or lab dip. Because colour is in the yarn, an approved dip is what repeat orders are run against.

Finish

Non-iron, easy care, PFAS-free C0 DWR, softening and mechanical finishes. Where your buyer needs a certification, we can complete it to their requirement when the product documents support it.

Every dimension above is confirmed per order against the yarn and the finishing route available at the time.

Minimums

What a custom lot has to be

Usual minimums by category. They are set by yarn minimums and loom set-up, not by negotiation, and they are always subject to confirmation.

Usual custom minimums
CategoryUsual minimumNote
Yarn-dyed woven, custom2,000–3,000 m per colour · 2,000–3,000 m per orderThe exact figure depends on yarn and loom set-up.
TR and poly-viscose blends2,000 m per colour · 2,000 m per orderDyed and finished to the agreed specification.
Knit500 kg per colour · 1,000 kg per orderSolid dyed or yarn-dyed, finished to the end garment.
Special yarnsOn requestAvailability and quantity confirmed per case.
Spot lotsFrom 1 m per colourA supplementary channel only, subject to stock and priced above custom.

Minimums are confirmed per order and are not a standing commitment.

Sampling

What sampling costs, and how long it takes

Sampling is priced to be easy to start and honest about what costs money: your yarn, our loom time and the finishing route.

Typical cycles

StageTypical cycle *Note
Handloom / lab dip7–10 daysPreparation time only — courier transit is additional. Subject to confirmation.
Development sample20–30 daysFull construction and finish. Preparation time only — courier transit is additional. Subject to confirmation.
Bulk production30–60 daysFrom yarn booking, subject to confirmation.

* Subject to confirmation. Not a fixed or guaranteed lead time.

Who pays for what

A4 swatch
Free of charge. The courier is booked on your account, or prepaid by you.
Handloom and lab dip
Usually free of charge where the article can be developed on existing yarns; confirmed per request.
Development sample
Quoted per case, because the cost sits in the yarn, the loom time and the finishing route.
Special yarns
Quoted per case against the yarn supplier’s price and minimum.
Sample rounds
There is no fixed number of rounds. Repeat rounds are quoted as they arise.
Start here

What to send to open a development

Send these and the first reply can tell you whether the construction is workable, what it needs and what it would cost.

Start a development

Metres for woven, kilograms for knit.
Our target for a first manual response is within 1 working hour on business days.
Next step

Send the construction you have in mind

A reference sample, a swatch or a written specification is enough to start. We will confirm what is workable, what it costs and when it can run.

Minimums, sampling cycles and lead times are confirmed per order.